New Texas BBQ spot cooking in Westport; pitmaster says he’ll have the best brisket in KC

Five years after a one-time Westport ice house was renovated for food operations, Kevin Bulgerin wants to bring a taste of Texas barbecue to the site — and potentially add a new BBQ favorite from within Kansas City’s historic entertainment district. 

The future Grinning Bull BBQ space at 4141 Mill St. in Westport; photo by Joyce Smith

Grinning Bull BBQ is expected to take over one of two open spaces at 4141 Mill St. — in the back part of the limestone building (circa 1911) that also is home to Atomic Cowboy, Denver Biscuit Co., Fat Sully’s NY Pizza and the seasonal Frozen Gold ice cream (their entrances are on Pennsylvania Avenue). No opening date has been set.

Bulgerin grew up in Texas and started working at a Waco barbecue while in college, eventually becoming catering director.

“My freshman year in college there was nothing to do in Waco,” he said. “Then all of a sudden it became the place to be; people visiting from Maine, North Dakota, California, all over the country. And we were right off the interstate and had a reputation for good, consistent barbecue.”

Kevin Bulgerin, Grinning Bull BBQ, serves barbecue at a 2023 event in St. Louis; courtesy photo

He moved to St. Louis seven years ago to be closer to his wife’s family after the couple had the first of now five children. He became a catering director for Chick-fil-A.

But on the side, he was setting up a Grinning Bull barbecue trailer at pop-ups, farmers markets, festivals, corporate employee appreciation events, and real estate open houses for several years.

The Grinning Bull name? Bulgerin said people sometimes had trouble pronouncing his last name so he would say, “It’s like ‘bull grin.’”

A year ago, he purchased a commercial cleaning business to have more control over his schedule and expand the barbecue operation.

A friend in commercial real estate — who also is a partner in the new Frost frozen bar in Westport — wanted to tie in that business with an outside food concept. So Grinning Bull set up a pop-up operation on Pennsylvania Avenue during the pre-opening phase and hopes to barbecue for more events, including Kansas City Chiefs watch parties.

Click here to watch for updates from Grinning Bull BBQ.

The Westport home to Atomic Cowboy, Denver Biscuit Co., and Fat Sully’s NY Pizza at 4141 Mill St.; photo by Joyce Smith

The future Grinning Bull BBQ space at 4141 Mill St. in Westport; photo by Joyce Smith

Brisket from Grinning Bull BBQ; courtesy photo

Menu items can include nachos topped with slow-smoked pulled pork or chopped brisket, sliders, baby back ribs, smoked chicken wings, brats, and smoked potatoes, along with such sides as mac and cheese, coleslaw, cream-style corn, and barbecue baked beans. During the holidays, Bulgerin also offered smoked turkey.

“Brisket is where I hang my hat, my goal is to have the best brisket in whatever market I’m in,” he said. “We will still be partnering with Frost. So Frost customers will be able to order and have it delivered. Our Jimmy John’s version of barbecue if you will.” 

Pretty Please Social Room also is expected to be a tenant in the back space, but company officials did not return phone calls.

Westport also is home to locally owned Char Bar Smoked Meats & Amusements, a southern-inspired smokehouse featuring barbecue and an outdoor beer garden.

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Startland News contributor Joyce Smith covered local restaurants and retail for nearly 40 years with The Kansas City Star. Click here to follower on X (formerly Twitter), here for Facebook, here for Instagram, and by following #joyceinkc on Threads.