KC’s cheesemakers Green Dirt Farm opening new space in embattled Crossroads

Editor’s note: The following story was published by KCUR, Kansas City’s NPR member station, and a fellow member of the KC Media Collective. Click here to read the original story or here to sign up for KCUR’s email newsletter.

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Green Dirt Farm is opening a new restaurant next month that will bring its sheep’s milk cheeses to the Crossroads — in a spot now under threat from the new Royals stadium; The new restaurant is closer to the farm’s Kansas City clientele, and gives it a chance to expand production

Green Dirt Farm’s Prairie Tomme has won a slew of awards, including being named one of Culture Magazine’s best cheeses in the world in 2024; photo by Savannah Hawley-Bates, KCUR

To make the cheese, the team has to store the milk for the perfect amount of time and get as much of it into the batch as possible to maximize butter fat. They then press it into rounds and put it into fridges to age. Each wheel has an imprint of a sheep.

When it’s first made, the Prairie Tomme is green, because the salt and milk are still getting to know each other. It’s put into a humid fridge room to ferment and bloom, and the rind develops with the help of good mold. It turns a sort of orange color, then hardens and dulls into a warm gray when it’s done. It ages for three to six months.

Helen Cowan is in charge of cheese production at Green Dirt Farm and moved to Missouri from a cheesemaking operation in Vermont.

“It’s really a satisfying job to have because at the end of the day, at the end of the month, at the end of the six-month aging period, you have something physical to show people,” Cowan said. “And not only can you show it, but you can cut it open and you’re like, ‘Here, I made this. Eat it.’”

Helen Cowan came to Green Dirt Farm from Vermont, where she made both cow’s and goat’s milk cheeses. She says sheep are the most dramatic of the dairy animals, but that the effort is worth it; photo by Savannah Hawley-Bates, KCUR

Construction delays have pushed back the opening of the Crossroads restaurant and cheese facility multiple times, but Hoffmann and her team are eager to begin serving customers after three years of working to make it happen.

Their hard-fought location is now threatened by the Royal’s proposed stadium in the Crossroads, which would require the demolition of the restaurant and more than a dozen other businesses.

RELATED: ‘Out of touch’ ballpark plan leaves Crossroads small biz owners feeling betrayed

The entire Green Dirt team is committed to remaining open for as long as they can. Hoffmann also hopes the stadium won’t go in the Crossroads after all; instead, she’s trying to stay optimistic about her business’s future.

“We’ve spent a tremendous amount of creative energy, time, blood, sweat, tears and money to get this to where it is now,” Hoffmann said. “These are jobs that pay way better than minimum wage, that offer benefits. I just don’t think that the stadium jobs are going to offer that kind of commitment and value to the community.”

Hoffmann said Green Dirt Farm needs the Oak Street space to stay economically sustainable for years to come. If the building, which she owns, eventually gets torn down, she hopes they’re able to make cheese and serve meals for a while first.

For now, the Green Dirt team is readying the space to welcome guests.

Arévalo, Gude and Hoffmann sit in the second-floor dining area inside Green Dirt Farm where they are remodeling the historic building at 16th and Oak with hopes of opening sometime in March; photo by Carlos Moreno, KCUR

From one side of the restaurant, diners will be able to see into the aging rooms — bigger than the ones in Weston — for a peek at the cheese that could end up on their charcuterie boards or complement the sustainably raised meat in their entrees.

Executive Chef Oskar Arévalo wants the menu and atmosphere to feel intimate and nostalgic, like dining at the home of a friend who makes great food.

“Whenever I get into a dinner or something like that, we start talking about the food,” Arévalo said. “We’re not actually talking about the food, we’re talking about the community, the people at the table.”

The restaurant has elements of fine dining, but Arévalo and General Manager Matthew Gude want it to feel casual enough for people to regularly visit.

It opens into a lounge area where restaurant patrons can have a “cheese hour” filled with charcuterie boards and drinks. The breakfast and lunch menu will feature shareable and handheld food, and the expanded dinner menu will have offerings like lamb tartare.

“There are those restaurants that are birthday restaurants or anniversary restaurants or once-a-year restaurants,” Gude said. “I don’t want that to be this place. I want this to be something you think of all the time, for many different reasons.”

Green Dirt Farm currently has more than 100 sheep whose milk is used to make cheese. That results in more than 30,000 pounds of cheese per year. With the expansion on Oak Street in Kansas City, the farm will be able to make even more cheese; photo by Savannah Hawley-Bates, KCUR

The menu will be seasonal, just like the cheese production. Customers won’t be able to order a whole rack of lamb, because Arévalo wants to be sure to use the whole animal — and is sourcing the most environmentally friendly ingredients possible. Because Missouri is landlocked, Arévalo is still figuring out how to get fish on the spring menu in a sustainable way.

“Being able to serve meat and dairy the way that we raise it gives us peace of mind,” Arévalo said. “I hope that our customers will enjoy the story of the food as much as what we’re able to put on the plate.”

Customers who need a quicker cheese fix can stop in to buy some cheese from their deli case. Hoffmann says the Crossroads operation will help cut down costs for the farm’s wholesale cheese purchasers and allow the team to increase production, so Kansas City customers can eat Green Dirt cheese more often and for less money.

“That journey starts with the dirt and goes to the grass, then the sheep, then the milk, then the cheese, and then our community,” Hoffmann said. “Bringing our cheese to the community down here is like the culmination of a very big dream for me.”