Husband-wife culinary duo among 8 KC bars, restaurants named James Beard semifinalists
January 23, 2025 | Julie Denesha
Editor’s note: The following story was published by KCUR, Kansas City’s NPR member station, and a fellow member of the KC Media Collective. Click here to read the original story or here to sign up for KCUR’s email newsletter.
Many of Kansas City’s best-regarded culinary luminaries are represented in the nominations, including The Town Company and Chewology; But the list also includes some restaurants off the beaten path
An inventive cocktail bar owner, a Border War-themed bar, a baker and several local chefs were all named semifinalists for the 2025 national James Beard Awards, announced Wednesday morning.
Three more Kansas City chefs made the category of Best Chef-Midwest, along with one in tiny Overbrook, Kansas, about 30 minutes south of Topeka. Plus, a Lawrence bar with a historical twist made the cut.
The James Beard Foundation will announce the finalists for each category in early April and the winners in June.
The awards recognize exceptional talent and achievement in the culinary arts, hospitality and media, “as well as a demonstrated commitment to racial and gender equity, community, sustainability and a culture where all can thrive,” according to the foundation’s website.
Kansas City had seven nominations last year, although no restaurants or bars ended up making the shortlist of finalists.
Here are the local establishments and chefs who made the list this year, nationally and regionally.
National Award semifinalists were selected from a pool of nationwide candidates.
Outstanding Pastry Chef or Baker: Helen Jo Leach, The Town Company
The husband and wife team at The Town Company, which is based inside the Hotel Kansas City downtown, each made it into the semifinals. Innovative baker Helen Jo Leach leads The Town Company’s dessert program.
“It’s just truly an honor,” Leach said. “Obviously it’s cool to be recognized, but yeah, we’re really happy.”
Leach’s husband, Johnny Leach, earned a nomination for Best Chef-Midwest. Read more about that below.
Outstanding Wine and Other Beverages Program: JJ’s Restaurant
JJ’s Restaurant pairs contemporary American cuisine with a wide range of cocktails, beer and spirits. The restaurant reopened in the Polsinelli Building in 2014, 18 months after a tragic explosion.
Currently on their cocktail menu is “Smokey the Pear” with mezcal, St. George Spiced Pear liqueur, lemon, honey, served on a large cube.
You can also find “Tom’s Garden” with rosemary-infused Tom’s Town Garden Gin (from the local distillery Tom’s Town), shiitake vermouth and roasted garlic stuffed olives.
Best Chef-Midwest: Linda Duerr, The Restaurant at 1900
The Restaurant at 1900’s seasonally-based menu features modern American cuisine displaying influences of Duerr’s native New England, as well as Italian and French cuisines. The Mission Woods spot is a regular find on “best restaurants of Kansas City” lists.
Currently on the dinner menu is a starter of wild mushroom soup porcini velouté, with crispy black trumpet mushrooms, roasted chestnuts, and a whipped chestnut honey crema. The main course includes a wild boar rib chop cutlet with black walnut and herbed parmesan crust, oven-roasted tomatoes and cannellini beans, with citrus basil pesto.
Taiwanese Street food by James Beard semifinalist Katie Liu-Sung; photo courtesy of Chewology
Best Chef-Midwest: Katie Liu-Sung, Chewology
This is the second year Katie Liu-Sung’s Chewology, located in Westport, was honored as a James Beard semifinalist with her menu of world-class Taiwanese street food. Liu-Sung said she’s humbled by the honor and more prepared for the hype that comes with the territory.
“Last year was really like a big shock, and it’s still a shock for sure,” Liu-Sung said. “I talked to the staff to thank them for everything. Now we’ll just keep on doing what we do and nothing like big changes.”
Among Chewology’s dinner offerings are: Dan Dan, a spicy peanut ramen with pork, peanut chili, peppercorn, green onion and cilantro. There’s also Liu-Sung’s Taiwanese Beef Noodle with beef shank with pickled mustard relish, bok choy, green onion, cilantro and chili bomb.
Best Chef-Midwest: Johnny Leach, The Town Company
Executive Chef Johnny Leach and his wife, Executive Pastry Chef Helen Jo Leach, create seasonal menus together featuring elevated versions of popular Midwestern dishes.
“We love Kansas City,” Leach said. “We love being able to contribute to the local dining climate here, and just to be acknowledged on this platform is just huge. It really makes us feel great.”
The Town Company earned two nominations this year for the restaurant’s upscale cuisine with carefully sourced ingredients. This is the third year in a row that Johnny Leach has been singled out for James Beard recognition.
Saltwell Farm Kitchen, in Overbrook, Kansas, offers food that celebrates local farms, farmers and makers; photo courtesy of Saltwell Farm Kitchen
Best Chef-Midwest: Rozz Petrozz, Saltwell Farm Kitchen
This Kansas restaurant is named for the salty wells built on the original 1856 McKinzie Farmstead. Saltwell Farm Kitchen is in Overbrook, Kansas, 20 minutes west of Lawrence.
The hamlet is nestled in a grove of walnut trees, and they offer food that celebrates local farms, farmers and makers.
Outstanding Professional in Cocktail Service: Jay Sanders, Wild Child
Jay Sanders’ speakeasy Drastic Measures, made the James Beard Semifinalist list two years in a row. Now, its sister bar Wild Child, made the cut with its wide range of alcoholic and nonalcoholic drinks like “The Wayfaring Stranger: turmeric root-infused rye whiskey as well as strega, lemon, ginger and garam masala foam topped with tomato dust.
When he heard the news, Sanders was waiting in line at an Asian grocery store to buy bitter melon for a special event at Wild Child.
Sanders said that while he is pleased to be named, he said he felt it was important to acknowledge the talented staff behind the bar.
Wild Child’s wide range of alcoholic and nonalcoholic drinks like “The Wayfaring Stranger” Turmeric root infused rye whiskey. Strega, lemon, ginger, garam masala foam, topped with tomato dust; photo courtesy of Wild Child
“It feels weird to me because I can only do what I do because I have a whole team that does it with me,” Sanders said. “I’m not huge at accepting compliments. It’s just not my vibe, not how I was raised, you know?”
KCUR reported on Wild Child when it opened in 2023.
Outstanding Bar: John Brown’s Underground
This Lawrence, Kansas, bar offers “Free Lawrence,” a drink made with bonded whisky blend, aged rum, brandy and a cocchi-demerara reduction and bitters.
Other Missouri and Kansas restaurants
One more Kansas restaurant, Georges French Bistro in Wichita, Kansas, got the nod for Outstanding Restaurant presented by Acqua Panna Natural Spring Water.
The St. Louis area also had its fair share of nominations.
Seven names were recognized on the other side of Missouri, including competitors for Best Chef-Midwest. Read that roundup from St. Louis Public Radio.
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